Sandy Liang’s influence is palpable in the New York Fashion Week (NYFW) trends, notably the prevalence of bows over recent seasons—seen on garments, hairstyles, and footwear. In 2023, bows were ubiquitous, adorning the looks of influencers, It girls, and even celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker. While bows have waned in popularity in 2024, many fashion insiders continue to embrace the coquette aesthetic, pairing bows with other youthful styles such as stockings, satin ballet flats, and rosettes. Across the fashion landscape, a notable resurgence of schoolgirl-inspired ensembles is largely attributed to downtown designer Sandy Liang.
After a decade of leading her eponymous brand, Sandy Liang knows her identity and clientele well. She affectionately refers to her customers as “princesses” in collection notes, a term they likely appreciate. Liang has a knack for foreseeing and setting trends with subtle elegance. She adeptly incorporates her fans’ influences, such as Sailor Moon, preferences for pale pink, and aversion to overly serious styles, reflecting her tastes.
“I just like what I like,” remarks Liang, attired in a navy turtleneck sweater and upscale slacks, backstage following her Fall 2024 collection presentation. “Regardless of age, certain childhood elements always draw me in, evoking girlhood for many.”
Sandy Liang’s influence within the downtown scene is formidable, often resulting in what is dubbed “the Sandy effect,” a sudden surge in popularity when seasons transition. For instance, if Liang unveils a collection featuring items like sexy bra tops and demure matching skirts, which caused a sensation at her Spring 2023 show last fall, it won’t be long before the city is teeming with women emulating her styling choices on dates at Casino and drinks at Le Dive. Over the past three collections, Liang has prominently featured bows, prompting a widespread adoption of the trend, with knockoffs and variations on her signature style emerging rapidly.
Sandy Liang’s latest collection, premiered on Sunday, February 12, marks a noticeable departure, particularly for bow enthusiasts. The extravagant, oversized bows of previous seasons gave way to refined separates adorned with subtle ribbon accents. Cozy knitwear decorated with rosettes and varsity details, tailored for “New England college girls,” according to Liang, replaced the sexy pinafores of yore. Even the presentation venue, a minimalist studio on the west side featuring only a pale yellow curtain as décor, diverged from the ambiance of her previous shows held in esteemed locales like the American Academy of Medicine.
“I was really nervous about showing a collection that is, let’s say, the least decorative,” she says. “I was worried about people being like, is it just a matching jacket and a skirt? But for me, that’s what I’m excited about right now.” Judging by the wide smiles and enthusiastic murmurs from the crowd after her show, Liang’s fears are unfounded. To know her is to love her, and this latest collection featuring highly wearable essentials imbued with just a sprinkling of her signature magic will read as more of a progression than a divergence.
Notable pieces from the collection include highly desirable ballet-flat-inspired boots adorned with a delicate bow at the toe, a nod to ’90s suiting featuring a subtle bow detail on the back, and an array of bubble miniskirts in various lengths and prints. Additionally, a stunning selection of lady-who-lunches dresses in pale pinks and creamy hues exuded retro glamour with a modern twist, destined to grace It girls like Blackpink’s Jennie Kim and Olivia Rodrigo in the months ahead.
The collection’s standout piece is a Sailor Moon-inspired mirrored star clutch, representing the designer’s inaugural venture into leather bags. It is the highly anticipated successor to her widely-discussed and consistently sold-out Baggu collaboration. This statement accessory is poised to captivate enthusiasts and is expected to feature prominently in street-style snapshots and FashionTok posts throughout the upcoming fall season.
Liang’s design prowess extends beyond bows; her fusion of wearability and statement-making sets her apart. “Comfort is such an important thing. If I’m designing for myself, and I live in New York, and I’m walking around…it has to feel very real.” Sandy’s girls, including runway models and her clientele, adapt their style for fall, sporting gloves with purses and layering creatively to combat the chill—skirts over pants, socks, and hoodies for added warmth. They embrace windbreakers, spacious pockets, and sweatpants as much as skirts and sailor dresses come autumn.
For those forecasting next season’s fashion, anticipate a departure from excessive ruffles and bows. Instead, expect a refined blend of luxurious essentials and unexpected elements. With a decade of experience, Sandy Liang has matured, offering a sophisticated perspective on the fashion landscape.